As your moving to hand coding I strongly recommend you have a look at HTML-Kit.

I use it for all my page coding. With its high level of customization and the huge range of plug-ins available, you can have it working the way that suits you. It comes in a free version as well as a Pro version which allows access to certain plug-ins. The Pro version is not the least bit expensive and well worth the cost.

With regard to getting used to using templates, in the sticky at the top of the css forum is a link to a templates download. This will explain what goes where and why and will give you a good basis from which to develop your own template system.